S-LINK Necklace
In the S-Link video, there is the requirement to use side cutters, round nose pliers, and the flat/needle nose pliers, 20 or 18 gauge nickel silver wire, and protective eye goggles. The use of the S-link is basically as a link that will connect pieces of the necklace together. The S-link is a combination of two links merged together by the same wire. To construct the S-Link, cut the 20 or 18 gauge wire to about two inches long by using the side cutters. After cutting the wire, use the round nose pliers to curl one end of the wire. Ensure that when cutting the wire that they are all the same lengths to make the final piece look even. Cut the wire into two inches long with the wire cutters. Grab the tip of the wire and curl/ spiral the wire. Continue to spiral the wire and stop when the curl is about half way through the wire and do not leave a gap between the end of the spiral and the remaining wire because it will be used to lock the other parts of the pieve together and keeps the pieces from slipping. Repeat the spiral with the other end of the wire, but make the new spiral in the opposite direction that will create a “S” type form, thus creating an S-Link. When done, artists can choose to take a hammer and flatten the S-links to give the piece a more refined look, if not they can leave the wire in its round shape. Make about fifteen S-links to create the necklace. When done making the S-links, cut pieces of two inch wires (the use of the two inches is to ensure there is going to be enough wire to use for the bone that will be used for the beads). With the two inches of wires, loop one end to create a hook. To create a hook, bend the wire in a 45 degree angle with the round nose pliers, then use the round nose pliers and bend the wire the other direction of the 45 degree angle, finishing and creating the hook. Use the hook to attach the S-link to the bone (the hook is going to be the bone) by opening the hook with the flat nose pliers and extending one part of the hook and slipping it onto the S-Link. After attaching the bone to the S-link, add the beads to the bone and repeat creating the 45 degree bend and making the hook to attach the end onto another S-Link creating the start of the chain for the necklace. se the flat nose pliers and pushes down on the wrap around to make sure to push the end of the wire that is sticking out and crimps it down to make the wrap look “nicely” round to ensure that whoever wears the piece does not get cut by the wires. Most of the time when wrapping the wire around the pieces and loops, use the pliers to hold on the wire and use hands to hold the long end of the wire to wrap the excess wires around the pieces. To make the hook, make a small curl around one of the ends of the wire, then make a larger bend for the wire to make the loop for the clasp. Further in the wire, bend the wire in the same direction at the small loop, but only bend the wire to a 45 degree angle. After, bend the section of the wire in towards the large loop, but make a small loop because it will be used to attach the clasp to the piece of jewelry. Go on to attach the small loop to the piece. As a way to close, use the end of the wire without the hook to wrap around the center of the hook or piece to close the small loop that is latching onto the piece will not fall off.
Water Color Paper Hair Piece
In the water color pendant youtube video, the example demonstrates that the needed tools for the project are glue, watercolor paper, water colors, paint brushes, varnish and the barrette attachment. The first step is to use a full sheet of water color paper and draw an outline for the barrette pendant. After drawing the outline of the shape of the pendant, cut out the shape. It is a necessity to cut out more than one of the shapes because it increases the sturdiness and the solidity of the piece. After cutting out the shapes, glue the pieces together by adding some drops of glue then spreading the glue evenly with a paintbrush. Be sure to rinse the brush after to keep the brush’s hairs from sticking together. Before the glue dries, try to shape the piece to get its rounded shape by using something with a round edge. To ensure that the piece will match the roundness of the barrette, use the barrette and align it to the back of the piece. When waiting for the glue to completely dry, use the outline of where the shape was to overlay the painting that was designed for the piece. Choose which part in specific of the watercolor painting that is going to be used for the piece. When done deciding, use the overlay shape to cut out the section of the watercolor painting. After cutting out the piece, glue the painting piece to the outer curve of the other papers that are glued together. Allow the glue to dry. When the piece is dry, use watercolors that match the colors of the painting to color the outer edges of the piece. When the piece is dry, glue the piece to the barrette by attaching the barrette to the inner curve of the piece. Then use a special type of paper material on the barrette side of the piece to add texture to the piece. In order to add the paper material, use the cut out of the shape to have an idea of what the shape will be and cut out the shape. Take into account the barrette by cutting a slit for the barrette and glue the material around the barrette. After gluing the paper material to the back of the piece, evenly spread a few strokes of varnish onto the piece, and not on the barrette. To cure the varnish, place it in a toaster oven on 150 degrees for five minutes. When it is done, the piece is complete.
Water Color Paper Earrings
The tools needed to construct water color paper earrings are four layers of 140lb cold pressed watercolor paper, water colors, a paint brush, earring hooks, glue, eye pins, clear gloss minwax polycrylic varnish, short length of 18 gauge wire, x-acto knife, self-healing cutting board, half round bastard cut file 8 or 10 inch long, protective eye goggles, 120 grit sand paper, and 600 grit sand paper. Begin drawing the outline of the shape that the earrings are going to be on the watercolor paper. Plan where the eye-pin will go that will connect the piece to the earring hook. The basic form of the earring is three watercolor papers thick. The top later will be painted and glued in place when most of the filing and sanding of the basic form is finished. The final product will have four watercolor paper layers. Cut out six shapes for the earrings to get one pair of matching pieces. (Meaning there will be a need to make six pieces over three to get two of the same piece. Use the outline of the piece to diagram six more of the shape. Cut out the outlines; ensure that four outlines have the channel for the pin of the earring. Coat a generous amount of glue to the back of the outline and spread it on with a paintbrush then glue the pieces together. Repeat the step with the other three pieces, but when layering the pieces together insert about a three inch wire into the channel created to get an estimate for where one will create the eye pin that will later be attached to the earring insert. Use the outline to draw two of the same shape, to make the earrings the same exact colors, place the two outlines of the shapes next to each other. Wet the area that will be painted and draw it across both parts of the shapes in the same area. Use the watercolor paints to paint the piece, repeat the step until the outlines are painted. Glue the water colored piece to the other layers of the piece. For making the piece curve, find a round surface to mold the piece while the glue is drying to get it to mold to the round surface. Add fashion paper to the opposite side of the piece than the painting. Use the sand paper to shape the piece and sand down the odd edges of the watercolor paper from sticking out. Use the watercolors to paint the sides of the piece to match the colors on the painting side. Coat the piece in a generous amount of varnish to the piece and place the piece in the oven to bake and harden into the final product. When dry, insert the eye-pin by adding crazy glue into the small hole at the top of the piece to hold the eye-pin to the piece. When the glue is dry, attach the earring hook to the eye-pin, do for both pieces to complete the project.
Egyptian Link Necklace
In the Egyptian Link Necklace, the items needed for the project are 18 or 20 gauge nickel-silver wire, wire cutters, round nose pliers, flat nose pliers, and a ruler. To begin the project, unwind some of the wire from the spool and flatten it into a line, measure it out into five inches, there is a need to repeat the step to have enough links for the necklace. After cutting the wires in length, bend the wire in half leaving room for the widest part of the round nose pliers. Using the round nose pliers, wrap the sire around the base of the rounded part of the pliers. Then use the flat nose pliers to seal the base of the loop creating a circular shape with the two ends of the wires closing the end of the wire. After, place the flat nose pliers at about half an inch from the base of the circle on the extending wire; bend the excess wires and the round section to have the piece in a 90 degree angle. This will be used to place the links together by inserting the straight end of the wire into the loop of the other link, make sure that all the links are facing the same direction when assembling the piece. After bending and inserting the piece into the other link, use the flat nose pliers by crimping the ends of the wire in opposite directions, it will in a sense look like a bug’s antennas. After crimping the ends, use the flat nose pliers to coil both sides in the opposite direction where the coil goes in an outward direction ending the coil at the 90 degree bend in the link. This bend and the coils ending help to ensure that the links will remain connected in the piece. Repeat these steps until there are enough links that create a long enough length for a necklace. When done completing the linked portion of the necklace, create a figure eight link by cutting wire that is about three inches long. With the three-inch wire, use the round nose pliers to create a figure eight link by wrapping the wire around the base of the round nose pliers and repeat the step in the opposite direction. When done, link one side of the figure eight link to the circular end of the final link on the necklace. Then close the figure eight link by twisting one of the excess wire lengths around the center of the figure eight link about three times. After cut off the excess wire as close to the figure eight link as possible to prevent the wearer of the necklace from getting scratched. As another method of protecting and safety of the wire, use a file to file down the sharp edges of the ends of the wire. On the other end of the necklace, do the same thing with the figure eight link, but this time attach the figure eight link to the bend in on the Egyptian link. To close the necklace, create the clasp and hook as seen on the video.
Figure 8 Link Necklace
There is a hook that is attached to a “figure eight” link. The tools needed for this project are side cutters, round nose pliers, and the flat nose/ needle nose pliers, 20 or 18 gauge nickel silver wire, and protective eye goggles.
The round nose pliers are used to make the round end of the clasp, the figure eight, and making loops.
To make the figure eight, we need to make two loops where the ends of the link face the opposite directions by the final product for the figure eight. The larger the gauge, the easier it is to turn and twist them. To close the figure eight, there is a need to twist the wires around the center of the link to ensure that the items connected to the link do not slip out. To twist the wire around the center of the wire around the center of the figure eight, we need to use the flat nose pliers to bend the wire. When cutting the end of the wire, try to cut as close to the figure eight as possible to ensure that there are no protruding excess wire sticking out that can injure the person wearing the piece.
Use the jewelry file to file down the protruding wire around the coil in the center of the figure eight.
The figure eight link is used to definitively end the piece.
Bend the wire up and around the tip of the wire to ensure that the connecting piece is not gong to fall off the other pieces. Keep the ends of the loop together to get the wire able to wrap around the wire close to the main part of the wire that is bent and ensure that the part that is connected does not separate. The person in the video tends to wrap around three times to ensure that the pieces are secure.
He uses the flat nose pliers and pushes down on the wrap around to make sure to push the end of the wire that is sticking out and crimps it down to make the wrap look “nicely” round to ensure that whoever wears the piece does not get cut by the wires.
Most of the time when wrapping the wire around the pieces and loops, use the pliers to hold on the wire and use hands to hold the long end of the wire to wrap the excess wires around the pieces.
To make the hook, make a small curl around one of the ends of the wire, then make a larger bend for the wire to make the loop for the clasp. Further in the wire, bend the wire in the same direction at the small loop, but only bend the wire to a 45 degree angle. After, bend the section of the wire in towards the large loop, but make a small loop because it will be used to attach the clasp to the piece of jewelry. Go on to attach the small loop to the piece. As a way to close, use the end of the wire without the hook to wrap around the center of the hook or piece to close the small loop that is latching onto the piece will not fall off.
The round nose pliers are used to make the round end of the clasp, the figure eight, and making loops.
To make the figure eight, we need to make two loops where the ends of the link face the opposite directions by the final product for the figure eight. The larger the gauge, the easier it is to turn and twist them. To close the figure eight, there is a need to twist the wires around the center of the link to ensure that the items connected to the link do not slip out. To twist the wire around the center of the wire around the center of the figure eight, we need to use the flat nose pliers to bend the wire. When cutting the end of the wire, try to cut as close to the figure eight as possible to ensure that there are no protruding excess wire sticking out that can injure the person wearing the piece.
Use the jewelry file to file down the protruding wire around the coil in the center of the figure eight.
The figure eight link is used to definitively end the piece.
Bend the wire up and around the tip of the wire to ensure that the connecting piece is not gong to fall off the other pieces. Keep the ends of the loop together to get the wire able to wrap around the wire close to the main part of the wire that is bent and ensure that the part that is connected does not separate. The person in the video tends to wrap around three times to ensure that the pieces are secure.
He uses the flat nose pliers and pushes down on the wrap around to make sure to push the end of the wire that is sticking out and crimps it down to make the wrap look “nicely” round to ensure that whoever wears the piece does not get cut by the wires.
Most of the time when wrapping the wire around the pieces and loops, use the pliers to hold on the wire and use hands to hold the long end of the wire to wrap the excess wires around the pieces.
To make the hook, make a small curl around one of the ends of the wire, then make a larger bend for the wire to make the loop for the clasp. Further in the wire, bend the wire in the same direction at the small loop, but only bend the wire to a 45 degree angle. After, bend the section of the wire in towards the large loop, but make a small loop because it will be used to attach the clasp to the piece of jewelry. Go on to attach the small loop to the piece. As a way to close, use the end of the wire without the hook to wrap around the center of the hook or piece to close the small loop that is latching onto the piece will not fall off.
Water Color Paper Bracelet
The parts of the bracelet is connected through cord, it makes it easier and moreadjustable for a person to wear. The materials needed to make the bracelet are 140pound cold pressed watercolor paper, elmer’s glue all, crazy glue, watercolor paints,round leather cord about 2mm, wax candles (thin), x-acto knife, self-healing cuttingboard, half round bastard cut file about 8 to 10 inches long, protective eye goggles,120 grit sand paper, 600 grit sand paper, and watercolor brushes. The use of ashishkabob stick will not be glued, but the knots tied via the cords will allow thebracelet to not slip off because the stick will slide into the loop on the opposite sideof the bracelet to secure it around the wrist of the person wearing it. To form thebracelet, you would need to cut out the shape of the bracelet, sand down the edgesand cut out a conduit for the cord. Using the watercolor paper, draw an outline ofthe shape used for the bracelet, make sure that there are enough for three sheetsper piece. Use the x-facto knife to cut out the watercolor papers. Following, that cutout the channel for the cord to allow the pieces to connect. After cutting out thepieces, glue the pieces together by applying a generous amount of Elmer’s glue tothe paper then use a paint brush to evenly coat the side of the paper, then positionthe second piece over and apply more glue and again apply a generous amount ofglue to the back of the paper. Then take the third piece and glue it onto the othertwo pieces. Using PVC piping, mold the piece to get a rounded surface from the layer.Look at the piece to make sure that there was no separation and place it back to thePVC pipe to make sure its curve will hold and the pieces of paper will not fall apart.Follow those steps for each piece until there is enough to make the bracelet.When the pieces are done drying, to create the channel, use a piece of wax and placeis where you’d want the channel to be, then place into a toaster oven at 200 degreesto melt the wax out. If you don’t want to use wax, use birthday candles. Since theedges of the pieces are rough, use the 120 grit sand paper to smooth down the edgesof the pieces. Use a pencil and draw an outline of where the wax would go, and cutout more watercolor paper to create the backing. Before placing the piece in theoven, make sure that the wax sticks out, so that when varnishing it, the wax will notget stuck because of the varnishing. Apply glue to the piece, then apply the glue tothe extra sheet of watercolor paper, to dampen the paper to make it more flexible.Place the wax on the piece of watercolor paper the use the extra sheet and glue it tothe paper. After placing the paper over, squeeze and merge the paper so that itshapes around the wax. Glue another layer of watercolor paper over the single sheetof paper to ensure that the wax will not move and that nothing will life off the piece.Burnish the piece to achieve a nice contact between layers. Ensure that the pieceswith the wax are dry, sand it down to have smooth edges. Then glue decorativepaper to the back and sand down the edges. After, glue the painted layer ofwatercolor paper over the and sand down the edges when its done. After, use watercolors to paint the edges to allow it to have some color. Then varnish the pieces,then insert the jewelry cord into the channels where the wax was and link thebracelet together and connect it via the stick.